Mobile Car Detailing Melbourne Information

Full Detailing
Detailing in summary is the systematic cleansing, perfecting and protecting of all surfaces and areas of your vehicle. It is a service with many intricate stages that can take anything from 1 full day to 1 full week or more to complete depending on the level of service desired, the condition of the vehicle and the needs from the owner. It is a service that completely transforms the condition, appearance and maximises the value of your vehicle ­ as long as the detailer you employ has the passion, skill and vitally the experience necessary. A good detailer is someone who will prepare a car to the very highest level of presentation. No matter what the age of vehicle, modern or classic; detailing can transform it!

Paint Protection
There are many car care products out in the market that claim to protect your car’s paint work. However, not all car products are the same, just as not all cars are the same. Every car will get you from A to B, but as we know there is a big difference between models. Paint protection, car wax, and polishes are no different. They all give some sort of shine, but that’s where the similarities end.Paint Protection is a true Car Paint Protection Coating for all automotive surfaces. Paint Protection is a Ceramic Polymer Resin which has better scratch resistance, UV resistance, and chemical resistance than any other Car Paint Protection product available from Dealerships and other Paint Protection companies such as Titanium Dioxide, PTFE, Acrylic, Glassglexin and Nanotechnology which we have proven will not withstand continuous washing with anything harsher then a gentle car wash.Paint Protection measures approximately 2 microns in thickness. Compared to other Paint Protection systems, this is more than 100 times thicker with tests showing a dealership Paint Protection Sealant measuring less than 0.02 microns, with our paint protection on your car it will be totally protected from damaging environmental elements such as Bird Droppings, Tree Sap, Pollution & Acid Rain, Fading / Oxidization, Ultraviolet Rays & Corrosion.

Leather Protection
Our leather protection service protects the interior of your car against spills and dirt. The leather protection seals the leather surface reducing the chances of stains from rubbing dark coloured clothes against the seats and depending on driving and usage conditions, it can last for up to 12 months. This service is a must for leather interiors! We recommend this service to be executed on a newly purchased car.

Fabric Protection
Fabric protection is a completely safe and long lasting stain protection and release application formulated with an Anti Allergy. Firstly, Fabric protection is designed to protect Fabrics and soft furnishings from stains, grime, dirt and soil build up. Secondly, the Anti-Allergy component binds to the treated textile and provides lasting hygiene and controls the growth of bacteria, Mould and Mildew.
Leather Clean/Condition

Leather surfaces are just like beautiful, delicate skin. Leather must be carefully cleansed before it can be properly conditioned. As leather ages, it loses essential protectants infused into the leather during the manufacturing process. That leaves the leather susceptible to dirt, oils, and UV damage. To keep leather looking and feeling its best, you must clean it at least once in 3 months.

Claying
Claying / Clay Bar is a process used to remove paint contaminants on the paint such as bugs, tar, road grime, fallout, tree sap, some paint over spray, and other contaminants that washing cannot remove. The Clay Process actually cleans below the paint surface to remove the contaminants that grip to the paint. Does your car need the clay bar process before a detail? YES! Claying is one of the most important steps in cleaning the paint, and actually cleans the paint better than a wash alone. It cleans deep into scratches and pits and removes deep lodged dirt that may have been there for the life of the vehicle. There is no other way of cleaning a car as thorough as claying.

Paint Correction
Paint correction is a process to remove swirls and scratches from paint work using special polishes of varying abrasiveness by machine. It removes 90% – 100% of swirls, cobwebbing, water marks, bird stains, scratches and restores colour if paint has dulled or faded to leave paint in as new condition, saving on expensive resprays and retaining resale value.

Engine Detailing
A detailed engine can almost be like a work of art. Car designers and engineers often put considerable effort into getting your engine looking as great as the rest of the car, so it’s a shame to leave it covered in dirt, leaves, oil and water spots. We have considerable experience in working in this sensitive area and carry the products to do the job properly.

Car detailing information and how to do it

Rrinse is a ability used to clear the exterior and in many cases, the interior regarding motor vehicles. Whereas the auto describing is the process of an thorough cleaning, polishing and waxing to produce a far better finish of the car. Aside from improving their appearance, detailing helps to preserve the reselling value of the automobile.When choosing

the best option there is destined to be pros and cons in both. When choosing keep in mind these factors: money & time financial savings, work high quality, and beneficial to our environment.For the

nearby car wash, don’t need to have to worry about paying for the water you have. On the other hand, local car clears need enormous investment pertaining to power, commercial land as well as detergents. Additionally, a long type of cars is always waiting to get cleaned in these shops making the automobile owners loose time waiting for long hours for his or her service prospect. Local car wash users think that the process is fast and simple. And rarely realize these are wasting funds as they wait for their vehicle to get cleaned.Mobile

automobile detailing is a lot more popular given it allows you to get a vehicle detailed while you continue to handle your small business. You can be at work, or house while you car is getting vapor cleaned. Selecting saving money since be working while your vehicle will be detailed. Using a mobile explaining service permits you to save time for the reason that technician comes to you, allowing you to continue to do your everyday actions. In addition, it provides expert attention and strong cleaning in which transforms your automobile.Good

automobile maintenance is vital to keep your vehicle looking great and properly functioning. It might easily be accomplished at the carwash facility within the neighborhood. Even so, along with the simple maintenance such as checking tire pressure along with fluid investigations, auto describing franchises can help preserve the outside finish of your vehicle. Community car wipes in the neighbour normally merely do another thing and that is way too clean the outside ofthe vehicle.

In each case, the car looks immaculate soon after the wash. Key words tend to be: Right after your wash! Bear in mind looks are usually deceiving. Community car washes use huge dirty paint brushes that scratch and harm the exterior of your vehicle while leaving swirl marks. The particular paintwork of the automobile cleaned simply by an auto explaining franchise is much better condition than one cleaned by the community car wash the reason being the details technician has gotten proper care of your vehicle paying attention to every little fine detail.Additionally,

carwash outlets consume excessive amounts of water and also this causes polluting of the environment within the neighborhood waterways on account of chemically produced environmentally unfriendly soaps. Many business car flushes aren’t that significant to recycle the washed water even to this right now. Which leads to losing the modern evening customers and also revenues for that local car washunits.

However, the professional auto detailing services lessen pollution by either the treatment of water onsite or working wastewater into the sewer system wherever it is dealt with downstream. In addition, several auto describing franchisees use vapor for detailing cars to save water. Most of all the use of water is to assist preserve the degrading stock with the precious all-natural resources -water.

The majority of franchisees are related to major auto detailing stores with proven brand names which reassure the automobile owners making them feel secure of these investment. Most of them offer friendly to the environment mobile companies right with the location with the cars and present hassle free vehicle detailing pertaining tolow budget.

The quality of the cars exterior while done in a local carwash has a totally different effect on cars paint. The local car wash is harmful to the car’s external finish. Your cleaning as well as detailing prices at these kinds of car wash outlets also are inconsistent. The rate are usually most firmly based on the rushseason

Car detailing businesses have no this kind of concerns to the car owners in the event it come to detrimental the fronts finish. Their units are usually completely self-reliant as well as equipped with the actual ultra-modern gadgets. Using own power and h2o, they offer variety of services, through polishing along with buffing of the vehicle on the outside, to its shampooing as well as glossing the interior components. All the polishes used by these kinds of franchisees are of high quality and tested before actually using them for the cars. They have fully trained professionals which reassures the vehicle owners and offers them a soundpeace of mind.

Invariably, the car operator would prefer the car detailing operation, which is printed, established, and it has a large database of happy customers. What makes most cell detailing franchise companies stand before rest is they offer green detailing want to please your environmentalists as well as the public.

Car show detailing

DMS Detailing in Car Shows, DMS, DMS Detailing, Detailing, NSW, Paint Correction, Products, Services, car, carrera, enhancement, nanolex, porsche, products, vehicle

I’m sitting here in my little stall at The Armory of Homebush Park looking at the stunning four wheeled supermodels rolling in to the grounds. There’s every size, shape and colour of these German visionary’s works of art coming in and lining up ready for the judging. The weather is overcast and threatening to rain but this doesn’t seem to be hindering any of the entrants from arriving in style today.

I’m at the Porsche Club of NSW’s annual Concours D’Elegance and the competition looks to be fierce today. It’s early yet but there seems to be a great turn out, despite the weather. As I write I’m watching a fully grown man lying flat on the grass, polishing meticulously a probably microscopic mark on his pride and joy. It’s this kind of dedication and commitment that is so enjoyable to watch, from a detailer’s point of view it’s truly great to see.

I’ve just arrived back from getting some breakfast from the good people at West Pennant Hills and Cherrybrook Rotary Club who are here to sustain us all for the day. To my right are two lovely blokes from NEVCO with some really impressive trailers, and further up we have Autohaus, and some other exhibitors still to come.
The people are really starting to arrive now, and what is surprising me are all the families and young children in attendance, showing their support and helping out. To my left one young boy no older than 8 is helping his father with one last wipe down of the windows before the judges come to have a look shortly. He looks as proud as anything.

It’s just started to rain now, and I’ve been joined by some of the members who are taking refuge in our marquee. Certainly glad I brought this today! The band has arrived and the good people from Autohaus have given them their marquee so the show will go on, as they say. The rain still hasn’t washed away any good spirits or enthusiasm, only brought out the umbrellas as the entrants go about their final preparations. I’m surprised they don’t make umbrellas for vehicles!

I’ve just done a quick run around and touched up my client’s cars who are in attendance today, much to their wonderful appreciation. I’m not going to lie, I would love to see one of their cars take it out today, but having said that there are some seriously impressive looking cars here, so I’m sure the most deserving will rightly take the title.

The rain is starting to ease now, and the band has started to play. Some accordion music which when coupled with the weather and cars is making the day feel very European! I’ve even just spotted a lady walking two sausage dogs!

Well we officially have a full house here now, and the sun is starting to peak through. I’ve just done a run around to all my client’s cars to take some photos. The sun is really starting to make them all shine and the place looks like a chest of shining jewels.

I’ve had the pleasure of meeting some very great people here today, including one man who grilled me on nano-technology, which really tested my knowledge, and rightly so.

Another gentleman bought a green wash mitt,

only to say that his daughters will probably be back for the pink alternative shortly, with a grin on his face. Sure enough, no more than 10 minutes later two young girls turn up and shyly but surely make the switch and with an approving nod from me, run off back to their father.

The judging is well underway with the official Concours Judges wandering around with their official looking clipboards and serious faces. They have a tough job ahead of them, and I don’t envy their position at all today, all the cars look really amazing. The entrants are never too far away from their babies, keeping a close and watchful eye on anyone coming close, and rightly so! The entrants I have in today’s events are:

Yasmin 996 Carrera – received a pre-show touch up after having a Single Stage earlier in the year.

Bill with a 964 Carrera – this received a Double Stage Enhancement

Alan with a 986 Boxter – receiving a Single Stage Enhancement

Mark with a 968 CS – I didn’t service this leading up to the event, but he is a client.

Mark with a 993 Carrera – This received our top end service, a Paint Correction

Also have Steven’s 993 Turbo S, which must have been too good looking for the camera because none of my photos turned out!

The community feel of this whole event is really what I think I’m enjoying the most. There are about five or six client’s here today, with a dozen or so I’m quite familiar with, and even more again that I’m starting to recognise their faces. The guys at the PCNSW really do a great job of maintaining this friendly but passionate feel to this community, and I’m certainly starting to get the bug, despite the fact that blasphemously I don’t myself own a Porsche … yet! One day. For now I’ll have to settle with the Ute, not as impressive looking but certainly practical.

The sun is out in full force today, and what a complete one-eighty the day has had. People have switched their jumpers and umbrellas for sunnies and caps, but never losing their enthusiasm. I’ve just spoken to Darryl who told me this is one of the best turn outs they’ve had, and I’m just really glad to be a part of it.

Things are starting to wrap up and I’ve been told they are having a really tough time deciding on the Concours winner, having to look at each car over and over and being as picky as hell, which I suppose is what it’s all about. As for the Show and Shine some of the entrants have been judged and have left to enjoy the remainder of their Sunday, while others are busy socialising, having a drink or picnic, and catching up with fellow members, with their Porsche’s soaking up the sun not too far away.

The winners have just been announced, and there was much enthusiasm and excitement. I didn’t know many of them personally, but the crowd definitely gave the impression they were well-deserving winners, so congratulations to everyone.

All in all it’s been a fantastic day, the first of many I think. Thanks to Wayne, Darryl and Rob and all the guys at PCNSW for putting it on, and for inviting me to attend.

Until next time,

Dan

DMS Detailing in Detailing

Hi Everyone,

Thanks once again for looking at my blog.

Today’s blog post was a special request from the guys at the VW Watercooled forum.

So to start off let’s cover what failing cleat coat is and what causes it.

Layers of Paint

When a modern car is painted there are three distinct layers of paint:
1. The primer or basecoat. This is the first layer or paint that is sprayed down over the bare metal, plastic or composite body of the car. The colour of this will depend on what colour the final car is going to be but it is almost always either grey, white or black.

2. The colour coat. This, as the name suggests, is the layer of coloured paint which you can see once the car is painted. This varys depending on what colour you, or the previous owner chose for the vehicle. It can either be a solid colour or a metallic colour. If Metallic or Mica then the paint has been mixed with different coloured flakes of metal or natural Mica. There are many different coloured flakes available for example red cars can have gold metallic, such as Mazda’s Copper Red Mica, black cars can have blue flake, such as Ford’s Silhouette and silver cars can have silver flake like VW’s Reflex Silver. The type of flake varys between manufacturer.

3. The clearcoat. The clearcoat is the very top layer of paint on the vehicle. As the name suggests this coat of paint is clear. Clearcoat varys widely between manufacturers. Some, like Honda’s, are sticky which makes them harder to polish, and some like Subaru, are soft, which means they mark easily and some like VW, Audi and Mercedes are very hard due to using a specialist clear called cerramiclear. This means they require special cutting compounds but are very durable and yield a great finish.
It is the clearcoat that you polish, wax or seal and it is the clearcoat that has to deal with all the environmental damage such as bird droppings, jet fuel, industrial fallout and mineral etching.

Why Does Clearcoat Fail?

So now we have an understanding of what clearcoat is we can look at what causes it to fail.

There are three main causes to clearcoat failure:

1. First is impropper paint bonding. This occurs when the clearcoat is layed down incorrectly over the colour coat. The bond between the two is not achieved and as such the clear will slowly begin to bubble and peel from the vehicle. This picture shows the failing clear on the left hand side of the boot lid. The right hand side had a filler wax applied to mask the problem for the owner.

2. The second is removal of too much clearcoat. This often occurs when the vehicle has been agressively buffed a number of times or if the vehicle has been wetsanded by an inexperienced operator. This leaves the clearcoat thin and as such it’s UV blockers are removed and it gives in to the effect of the harsh Australian sun.

Image care of Autogeekonline.net

3. The third is lack of protection. Some people just don’t look after their cars and as such the paint work never saw any wax or sealant. Over time the effects of the environment took their toll and you’re left with a mess that needs to be sprayed to be fixed up.

Slowing Failing Clearcoat

So your clearcoat is failing, what can you do to stop it? Well in short, nothing. Once the process has started it can’t be stopped. You can however attempt to slow it.

If your clear is peeling due to a poor bond with the colour coat or insufficient film build there are a few things you should do:

1 . Always wash and wax or seal from the strong side of the clear to the failing side this will prevent you from getting contaminates and solvents stuck under the failing clear. It will also mean that you do not lift the edge with your cloth or app pad.

2. Use a good quality wax or prefrebly a sealant with both UV-A and UV-B blockers. Examples of these are Duragloss 105 , Zaino Z2 Pro and Nanolex paint sealant. This will restore the UV blocking properties and assist with the slowig down of the clear failing.

There are also a couple of things not to do:

1. Pressure washing. If the jet of the pressure washer hits the failing clear then it cause it to lift, further exasperating problem.

2. Abrasive polish. If the clear is already failing there is no need to help it along by thinning it out further. Even light polishing may make the situation worse so it is best to stay away all together. If you are massively concerned with swirl marks then use a filler polish such as Autoglyms Super Resin Polish or Ultra Deep Shine and top it in Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection.

Preventing Clearcoat from Failing

So what if your clear is fine? How can you stop it failing?

1. The main thing to do is always use a quality carnauba wax or a quality synthetic sealant. This will act as a barrier between the environment and your paint. This sacrificial layer will take the force off the bird droppings, jet fuel and mineral etching meaning your clear coat stays in pristine condition.

2. Secondly be wary of who machine polishes your vehicle. A lot of unskilled tradesmen will use agressive cutters that will remove a lot of marks but also a lot of paint. Ensure that anyone that is agressively correcting your vehicle either through machine polishing or wetsanding is experienced as is using a paint thickness gauge (below) to assess how much film build remains between all the steps.

As always feel free to ask any questions or leave comments.

Dan

How to: Maintain your Vehicle with Premium Products

Hello car lovers, your friendly neighbourhood Detailer Dan here.

I’ve been requested to write a how to guide for people that want to look after their car but with premium based products.

Before I start ill just say the products and processes I use will not work for everyone in the world. You really need to use this as a guide and find what works best for you. In saying that, I’m not going to get too technical so you will be able to work out what is what very easily. Some of the products mentioned will be off the shelf variants. All the products I’m mentioning I have had personal experience with. All products are available from any good car product supplier/retailer, my supplier is Car Care Products.

Washing

Washing the car is the most regular thing we do in terms of maintaince. There is a lot of info floating around regarding what to use what not to use. There are 3 main principles that if followed will see you washing correctly every time. They are:
1. Use two Buckets
2. Use PH Neutral Wash
3. Use Microfiber cloths

Why 2 Buckets?
When you wash the car the dirt from the car gets transferred to your mitt. When you dunk it back into the wash solution that dirt stays in the solution for next time. Effectively what you’re doing is washing your car with dirty water.

When you use 2 buckets one is full of wash solution and the other rinse water.
Once you have hosed down the car (preferably with a HP washer) you get your clean mitt and dip it into the wash solution. Using very light pressure wipe the dirty panel using straight lines, not circular motions.

Once you have done say a guard or half the bonnet, dip the mitt into the rinse water and run your fingers through the fibres to help get the dirt out. Squeeze the water out of the mitt.
Return the mitt to the wash solution and do the next panel. As always do this in the shade, don’t let the shampoo dry etc.
It’s always to go from top down. Personally I do the wheels and tyres last but it’s up to you. I give them a HP rinse before I start and I finish them off by hand. I don’t use wheel cleaners unless they are very very bad and the one I use you can’t buy, however ill still give you some good ones to try.

Product Recommendations
Dodo Born to Be Mild
Duragloss Cherry wash Concentrate
Aquatouch Microfiber Wash Mitt
Mint Microfiber Wash Mitt
Drying

Once the car is all washed, it’s time to dry. To dry there is no better tool than a Microfiber Waffle Weave Drying Towel (WWDT). I use the extra large towel, which is able to try a whole Land Cruiser or Discovery without being wrung out. You could most likely get away with a large if you wished but in my opinion the XL is the way to go.

To dry using a WWDT is very simple. I fold it into quarters to start. I then dry the windows to help prime the towel. This isn’t necessary when new but after a while (like a year) it will help them dry.
When drying the paint again use no pressure and slowly drag the towel across the paintwork. If there are trace amounts of water left flip the towel and give it another light pass over.
Once that section of the towel gets saturated turn it inside out and go again.

Product recommendations
Mint WWDT

Waxing or Sealing & Polishing

Waxing is a crucial step in the care if your vehicle. It protects the surface from the everyday nasties like bird bombs, tree sap, water deposits etc.
It’s also very important to note that waxing and polishing are two very different things.
The biggest misconception I come across in detailing is people that don’t understand the difference between waxing and polishing. I can see how they get confused, but here is a rundown of each process and how they are different.

Polishing

Polishing is used to fix paint defects. Polishes can be either chemical or abrasive. Chemical polishes include things like Swissvax cleaner fluid, Polylack Nano Clean and Zymol HD Cleanse. They chemically clean the surface to remove contaminants and defects. They will not remove swirl marks. For this you need an abrasive polish.
For abrasive polishes there are many brands. The best I have used is Menzerna. But the Meguiars professional range is abrasive as is the optimum polishing range. Abrasive polishes need a machine to reach their full potential. Either a random orbital or a rotary. Abrasive polishes have tiny little abrasives suspended in the liquid. This is what does the work, the size and type of abrasive varies depending on the polish you use. The abrasives round the edges of the scratches and swirls so they can no longer be seen. In the case of swirls and fine scratches they are removed. In the case of deep scratches they are always reduced and with the use of wet/dry sand paper can be removed. Menzerna Powergloss has large abrasives which remove large defects but leave the surface full of marring and quite dull. Then there is Menzerna intensive polish this is between the two but on most colours needs to be followed with final finish. This depends on the pad used. Menzerna Final Finish leaves the surface free from defects and with a great depth and shine. Here are some pics so you can see the difference

After powergloss
After Intensive polish

After final finish
Waxing

Waxing is the last step you do when washing or detailing your car. That is why you may see it referred to as the LSP (last step product). The purpose of waxing is to create a barrier between your paint and the environment. Most waxes contain UV inhibitors to stop the sun damaging the paint. They also repel water which stops your paint getting etchings from watermarks. There are many may different LSPs out there, both natural or synthetic or even a mixture of both.

Natural

Natural waxes tend to give more of a warmth and a glow. These waxes range in price starting at around $50 and up to $19000. Brands include Swissvax, Zymol, P21S, Dodo and many many more. These are the boutique brand waxes. You can get off the shelf waxes but I don’t rate them for durability or look personally. If they are working for you then go for it! Natural waxes also tend to bead water. This means the water forms tight little beads that run off very easily. If you have a freshly waxed car and drive it in the rain you will find the water will just run off. The lower end waxes and off the shelf waxes last 3-5 weeks before needing to be reapplied whereas the higher end can last 6-8 weeks.

Synthetic

Synthetic products do not contain wax. They, for the most part contain polymers or acrylic. These are the two main types of sealers. Sealers include Duragloss 105, Zaino Z2 and Z5, Polylack Nano seal, Optimum opti seal, Klasse AIO, Zaino AIO. Sealants start at around $35 for the boutique brands. I have found Zaino to be the best as it can be layered unlimited times but still remains optically perfect if you use Z2. Z5 will not as it has fillers to hide swirling.

Sealants give a different look to wax. It gives a look that is best described as sterile. The paint is shiny but it lacks the warmness and glow of a natural wax. Some sealants like the Klasse make the car look like it has a plastic coating. Some people love this look so leave it others, like myself, don’t and then top it with a natural wax. Synthetics tend to sheet water. The water wont form beads, rather it will just run off in a sheet is the best way to describe it. Sealants leave a very slick and slippery surface. Sealants also last a lot longer than a wax with most giving at least 3 months protection and up to 12 months for layered sealants.

Combination waxes

These have a mix of both natural and synthetic waxes present. These are waxes like Optimum car wax (OCW). They are a good compromise as they give the look of a natural wax and some of the durability of a sealant. Layered OWC can last 3-4 months.
Filler waxes
These are waxes like Meguiar’s NXT range. They contain things called fillers which fill swirls and scratches. The fillers also mute the metallic in the paint so it won’t pop as much. As the product wears off the defects return. I don’t like filler products as they wear off and the surface looks bad again.

This car has natural wax (Swissol Scuderia ~$200)

This one has Zaino Z2 Pro layered 3 times and topped with Z8
Product Recommendations

Polishing
Menzerna Polish kit
Heavy Duty – Menzerna Powergloss (High Cut, very low gloss)
Medium duty – Menzerna P203S (medium to high cut, medium gloss. Follow with PO85RD)
Light duty/High gloss – Menzerna 106FF (same gloss as 85RD but more cut, use on its own)
High Gloss/ Very light duty – Menzerna PO85RD (same gloss as 106FF but very little cut, use after P203S)
Wax
Dodo Supernatural Paste Wax
Dodo Colour Charged Soft wax

(note: the above link if for Orange crush. Look at the other soft wax’s to pick the best one for your paint type)

Dodo Colour Charged Hard Wax
Dodo Lime Prime
Dodo Lime Prime Lite

Sealant
Duragloss 105
Duragloss 111
Zaino Z2
Zaino Z5
http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/pr…how_car_polish
Spray Hybrids
Optimum Car Wax
Duragloss Aquawax.
Not as long lasting as OCW but it’s applied while the car is wet, is the perfect boost to a car sealed in Duragloss 105. It adds a very nice shine and some extra protection and only takes an extra 3 or 4 mins.
Well, I hope this has been informative for some of you! Until next time …

Dan

How To: Care for Failing Clearcoat

Hi Everyone,

Thanks once again for looking at my blog.

Today’s blog post was a special request from the guys at the VW Watercooled forum.

So to start off let’s cover what failing cleat coat is and what causes it.

Layers of Paint

When a modern car is painted there are three distinct layers of paint:
1. The primer or basecoat. This is the first layer or paint that is sprayed down over the bare metal, plastic or composite body of the car. The colour of this will depend on what colour the final car is going to be but it is almost always either grey, white or black.

2. The colour coat. This, as the name suggests, is the layer of coloured paint which you can see once the car is painted. This varys depending on what colour you, or the previous owner chose for the vehicle. It can either be a solid colour or a metallic colour. If Metallic or Mica then the paint has been mixed with different coloured flakes of metal or natural Mica. There are many different coloured flakes available for example red cars can have gold metallic, such as Mazda’s Copper Red Mica, black cars can have blue flake, such as Ford’s Silhouette and silver cars can have silver flake like VW’s Reflex Silver. The type of flake varys between manufacturer.

3. The clearcoat. The clearcoat is the very top layer of paint on the vehicle. As the name suggests this coat of paint is clear. Clearcoat varys widely between manufacturers. Some, like Honda’s, are sticky which makes them harder to polish, and some like Subaru, are soft, which means they mark easily and some like VW, Audi and Mercedes are very hard due to using a specialist clear called cerramiclear. This means they require special cutting compounds but are very durable and yield a great finish.
It is the clearcoat that you polish, wax or seal and it is the clearcoat that has to deal with all the environmental damage such as bird droppings, jet fuel, industrial fallout and mineral etching.

Why Does Clearcoat Fail?

So now we have an understanding of what clearcoat is we can look at what causes it to fail.

There are three main causes to clearcoat failure:

1. First is impropper paint bonding. This occurs when the clearcoat is layed down incorrectly over the colour coat. The bond between the two is not achieved and as such the clear will slowly begin to bubble and peel from the vehicle. This picture shows the failing clear on the left hand side of the boot lid. The right hand side had a filler wax applied to mask the problem for the owner.

2. The second is removal of too much clearcoat. This often occurs when the vehicle has been agressively buffed a number of times or if the vehicle has been wetsanded by an inexperienced operator. This leaves the clearcoat thin and as such it’s UV blockers are removed and it gives in to the effect of the harsh Australian sun.

Image care of Autogeekonline.net

3. The third is lack of protection. Some people just don’t look after their cars and as such the paint work never saw any wax or sealant. Over time the effects of the environment took their toll and you’re left with a mess that needs to be sprayed to be fixed up.

Slowing Failing Clearcoat

So your clearcoat is failing, what can you do to stop it? Well in short, nothing. Once the process has started it can’t be stopped. You can however attempt to slow it.

If your clear is peeling due to a poor bond with the colour coat or insufficient film build there are a few things you should do:

1 . Always wash and wax or seal from the strong side of the clear to the failing side this will prevent you from getting contaminates and solvents stuck under the failing clear. It will also mean that you do not lift the edge with your cloth or app pad.

2. Use a good quality wax or prefrebly a sealant with both UV-A and UV-B blockers. Examples of these are Duragloss 105 , Zaino Z2 Pro and Nanolex paint sealant. This will restore the UV blocking properties and assist with the slowig down of the clear failing.

There are also a couple of things not to do:

1. Pressure washing. If the jet of the pressure washer hits the failing clear then it cause it to lift, further exasperating problem.

2. Abrasive polish. If the clear is already failing there is no need to help it along by thinning it out further. Even light polishing may make the situation worse so it is best to stay away all together. If you are massively concerned with swirl marks then use a filler polish such as Autoglyms Super Resin Polish or Ultra Deep Shine and top it in Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection.

Preventing Clearcoat from Failing

So what if your clear is fine? How can you stop it failing?

1. The main thing to do is always use a quality carnauba wax or a quality synthetic sealant. This will act as a barrier between the environment and your paint. This sacrificial layer will take the force off the bird droppings, jet fuel and mineral etching meaning your clear coat stays in pristine condition.

2. Secondly be wary of who machine polishes your vehicle. A lot of unskilled tradesmen will use agressive cutters that will remove a lot of marks but also a lot of paint. Ensure that anyone that is agressively correcting your vehicle either through machine polishing or wetsanding is experienced as is using a paint thickness gauge (below) to assess how much film build remains between all the steps.

As always feel free to ask any questions or leave comments.

Dan

DMS Detailing

Tuesday, November 10, 2009 at 9:58PMTuesday, November 10, 2009 at 9:58PMDMS Detailing in DMS, Detailing, Guides, Paint Correction, Products, car, care, detail, detailer, guide, products, vehicle
Hello car lovers, your friendly neighbourhood Detailer Dan here.
I’ve been requested to write a how to guide for people that want to look after their car but with premium based products.
Before I start ill just say the products and processes I use will not work for everyone in the world. You really need to use this as a guide and find what works best for you. In saying that, I’m not going to get too technical so you will be able to work out what is what very easily. Some of the products mentioned will be off the shelf variants. All the products I’m mentioning I have had personal experience with. All products are available from any good car product supplier/retailer, my supplier is Car Care Products.
Washing
Washing the car is the most regular thing we do in terms of maintaince. There is a lot of info floating around regarding what to use what not to use. There are 3 main principles that if followed will see you washing correctly every time. They are:1. Use two Buckets2. Use PH Neutral Wash3. Use Microfiber cloths
Why 2 Buckets?When you wash the car the dirt from the car gets transferred to your mitt. When you dunk it back into the wash solution that dirt stays in the solution for next time. Effectively what you’re doing is washing your car with dirty water.
When you use 2 buckets one is full of wash solution and the other rinse water. Once you have hosed down the car (preferably with a HP washer) you get your clean mitt and dip it into the wash solution. Using very light pressure wipe the dirty panel using straight lines, not circular motions.
Once you have done say a guard or half the bonnet, dip the mitt into the rinse water and run your fingers through the fibres to help get the dirt out. Squeeze the water out of the mitt.Return the mitt to the wash solution and do the next panel. As always do this in the shade, don’t let the shampoo dry etc. It’s always to go from top down. Personally I do the wheels and tyres last but it’s up to you. I give them a HP rinse before I start and I finish them off by hand. I don’t use wheel cleaners unless they are very very bad and the one I use you can’t buy, however ill still give you some good ones to try.
Product RecommendationsDodo Born to Be Mild

Duragloss Cherry wash Concentrate

Aquatouch Microfiber Wash Mitt

Mint Microfiber Wash Mitt

Drying
Once the car is all washed, it’s time to dry. To dry there is no better tool than a Microfiber Waffle Weave Drying Towel (WWDT). I use the extra large towel, which is able to try a whole Land Cruiser or Discovery without being wrung out. You could most likely get away with a large if you wished but in my opinion the XL is the way to go.
To dry using a WWDT is very simple. I fold it into quarters to start. I then dry the windows to help prime the towel. This isn’t necessary when new but after a while (like a year) it will help them dry.When drying the paint again use no pressure and slowly drag the towel across the paintwork. If there are trace amounts of water left flip the towel and give it another light pass over.Once that section of the towel gets saturated turn it inside out and go again.
Product recommendationsMint WWDT
Waxing or Sealing & Polishing
Waxing is a crucial step in the care if your vehicle. It protects the surface from the everyday nasties like bird bombs, tree sap, water deposits etc. It’s also very important to note that waxing and polishing are two very different things. The biggest misconception I come across in detailing is people that don’t understand the difference between waxing and polishing. I can see how they get confused, but here is a rundown of each process and how they are different.
Polishing
Polishing is used to fix paint defects. Polishes can be either chemical or abrasive. Chemical polishes include things like Swissvax cleaner fluid, Polylack Nano Clean and Zymol HD Cleanse. They chemically clean the surface to remove contaminants and defects. They will not remove swirl marks. For this you need an abrasive polish. For abrasive polishes there are many brands. The best I have used is Menzerna. But the Meguiars professional range is abrasive as is the optimum polishing range. Abrasive polishes need a machine to reach their full potential. Either a random orbital or a rotary. Abrasive polishes have tiny little abrasives suspended in the liquid. This is what does the work, the size and type of abrasive varies depending on the polish you use. The abrasives round the edges of the scratches and swirls so they can no longer be seen. In the case of swirls and fine scratches they are removed. In the case of deep scratches they are always reduced and with the use of wet/dry sand paper can be removed. Menzerna Powergloss has large abrasives which remove large defects but leave the surface full of marring and quite dull. Then there is Menzerna intensive polish this is between the two but on most colours needs to be followed with final finish. This depends on the pad used. Menzerna Final Finish leaves the surface free from defects and with a great depth and shine. Here are some pics so you can see the difference
After powergloss
After Intensive polish
After final finish

Waxing
Waxing is the last step you do when washing or detailing your car. That is why you may see it referred to as the LSP (last step product). The purpose of waxing is to create a barrier between your paint and the environment. Most waxes contain UV inhibitors to stop the sun damaging the paint. They also repel water which stops your paint getting etchings from watermarks. There are many may different LSPs out there, both natural or synthetic or even a mixture of both.
Natural
Natural waxes tend to give more of a warmth and a glow. These waxes range in price starting at around $50 and up to $19000. Brands include Swissvax, Zymol, P21S, Dodo and many many more. These are the boutique brand waxes. You can get off the shelf waxes but I don’t rate them for durability or look personally. If they are working for you then go for it! Natural waxes also tend to bead water. This means the water forms tight little beads that run off very easily. If you have a freshly waxed car and drive it in the rain you will find the water will just run off. The lower end waxes and off the shelf waxes last 3-5 weeks before needing to be reapplied whereas the higher end can last 6-8 weeks.
Synthetic
Synthetic products do not contain wax. They, for the most part contain polymers or acrylic. These are the two main types of sealers. Sealers include Duragloss 105, Zaino Z2 and Z5, Polylack Nano seal, Optimum opti seal, Klasse AIO, Zaino AIO. Sealants start at around $35 for the boutique brands. I have found Zaino to be the best as it can be layered unlimited times but still remains optically perfect if you use Z2. Z5 will not as it has fillers to hide swirling.
Sealants give a different look to wax. It gives a look that is best described as sterile. The paint is shiny but it lacks the warmness and glow of a natural wax. Some sealants like the Klasse make the car look like it has a plastic coating. Some people love this look so leave it others, like myself, don’t and then top it with a natural wax. Synthetics tend to sheet water. The water wont form beads, rather it will just run off in a sheet is the best way to describe it. Sealants leave a very slick and slippery surface. Sealants also last a lot longer than a wax with most giving at least 3 months protection and up to 12 months for layered sealants.
Combination waxes
These have a mix of both natural and synthetic waxes present. These are waxes like Optimum car wax (OCW). They are a good compromise as they give the look of a natural wax and some of the durability of a sealant. Layered OWC can last 3-4 months. Filler waxes These are waxes like Meguiar’s NXT range. They contain things called fillers which fill swirls and scratches. The fillers also mute the metallic in the paint so it won’t pop as much. As the product wears off the defects return. I don’t like filler products as they wear off and the surface looks bad again.
This car has natural wax (Swissol Scuderia ~$200)
This one has Zaino Z2 Pro layered 3 times and topped with Z8

Product Recommendations
PolishingMenzerna Polish kit

Heavy Duty – Menzerna Powergloss (High Cut, very low gloss)

Medium duty – Menzerna P203S (medium to high cut, medium gloss. Follow with PO85RD)

Light duty/High gloss – Menzerna 106FF (same gloss as 85RD but more cut, use on its own)

High Gloss/ Very light duty – Menzerna PO85RD (same gloss as 106FF but very little cut, use after P203S)

WaxDodo Supernatural Paste Wax

Dodo Colour Charged Soft wax
(note: the above link if for Orange crush. Look at the other soft wax’s to pick the best one for your paint type)
Dodo Colour Charged Hard Wax

Dodo Lime Prime

Dodo Lime Prime Lite
SealantDuragloss 105

Duragloss 111

Zaino Z2

Zaino Z5http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/pr…how_car_polish

Spray HybridsOptimum Car Wax

Duragloss Aquawax.

Not as long lasting as OCW but it’s applied while the car is wet, is the perfect boost to a car sealed in Duragloss 105. It adds a very nice shine and some extra protection and only takes an extra 3 or 4 mins.

Well, I hope this has been informative for some of you! Until next time …
Dan

About Mobile car detailing Sydney

Mobile Car Detailing Sydney
Let us make your car shine and looking brand new. We will help fix most paint issues, and bring back that professional look for your car at an affordable price. We travel to you around the Sydney metro areas (most suburbs.) Just give us a call, our Mobile Car Detailing Sydney staff will come to your place and give you our best service.

If you need your car for a special event, that formal look to impress your clients or just want to resell it for the best price, Mobile Car Detailing Sydney will help you with detailing your cars. We would do all detailing work for all types of cars including your van, truck, personal cars, corporate cars, caravans, buses etc. We will professionally clean and polish the interior and exterior of all cars. We have many options for you to choose from according to your needs and budget.

Our full detail service can add dollars to the resale value of your vehicle by bringing it as close as possible to that new look.

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Take advantage of a Meguiars Trained Professional Detailer who has been delivering that shine since 1999 using the latest in Meguiars surface technology and detailing systems. Bring your prestige car back to its showroom condition and impress. With Sydney Mobile Car Detailing, your car is finished with style and confidence. Having a beautifully detailed car is a distinct advantage when meeting certain people, clients special guests etc. .

Left side covered in swirls and and fine scratches – right side – smooth as glass. Super Shine On can achieve this on your prestige vehicle and have it looking as it should. We call this our showroom shine.

It’s what we do best. Super Shine On has become Sydney’s black and dark colour specialist. We understand that polishing a black car and leaving it swirl-free is not easy, in fact, it’s quite a challenge.

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Paint correction, over spray and water spots.
Commercial vehicle detailing.
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Detailing of trucks inside and out.
Polishing of all types of vehicles.
Removal of stickers and decals from work vehicles.
Scourer damage.

AUTO CAR DETAILING HISTORY

Car Wax, Car Wash, and Detailing History

1800 – a carriage maker in a German town of Bischofsheim developed a wax based protectant made from animal fats to protect the black lacquer type paint that was applied to horse drawn carriages.

1888 – A small city of Pforzheim, Germany, a man named Friedrich Menzer founded a chemical factory to manufacture fine polishing agents for precious metals and gold. The company produced other materials but had a hard time sell the product.The product thast succeeded was called “Paris Red”, which was considered the best fine polish for gold. Menzer then moved his company to nearby Karlsruhe in 1899. Menzer opened branches in foreign markets starting in 1921.

1925- a factory was build for manufacturing the first Ditzler lacquer for automotive factory finishes. Ditzler Colour Company acquired property at 8000 W. Chicago Ave. in Detroit. Ditzler Colour Company was purchased by Pittsburgh Plate Glass Company in 1928, but continued to manufacture products under the Ditzler label as a subsidiary until 1968.

1930 – Hans Anwander produced the first jars of Antikwachs, hand made non-enzyme based wax formulas, in his small Zurich workshop, the workshop was in a carefully controlled environment. Hans developed the wax formulas to protect the family’s priceless collection of antiques and lacquers, Hans then tried it on his private collection of automobiles as well. It showed amazing results. Hans started a family business, after three generations the Anwander family carefully nurtured and refined the waxes into the ultimate standard for automotive care.

In the 1970′s the Anwander family came to the USA from Switzerland, hoping to sell the families wax formulas. Unfortunatly, the American market was only interested in ‘mass production’, it was decided that a modified formula would be sold for production in the USA. These formulas were enzyme based, and were originally distributed by the Turtle Wax Company. The Zymol company was founded in 1980 shortly after.

1936 – Einszett was founded by Werner Saur Sr. in Germany. The company began with the goal of making a quality car polish. Each product has been researched, tested, and manufactured in Germany. Einszett had strict quality guidelines. The product results were to work on; glossy paint, clean trim, and bright metalwork.

1950- Menzerna came under the management of Dr. Walter Burkart. Burkart started researching industrial polishing technology, continuing into the 1960’s came the advent of liquid polish emulsions, which is still the norm in the auto industry. Menzerna adopted this new way of processing. Menzerna applied to it some of the highest standards of quality that the industry has ever seen.

1960 – Another German manufacturer Car-Lack (US known as Klasse) was the first admixing polyethylene to be used instead of wax, Mercedes-Benz dealerships used the Car-Lack sealant, while Jaguar and various other English carmakers (Jaguar, Rolls Royce and Bentley) favoured Autoglym products Meguiar’s was founded in 1901 as a furniture finishes manufacturer and later started to do car waxes.

Between 1960 and 1990 thier was changes to paint reflecting new and better technologies. Waxes and sealers stayed the same through the paint transitions.

1990 – Saw the onset of water-based, oven dried two-stage (colour and clear coat) paint systems. This enabled a innumerable of paint colour options and having perfected the clear coat systems, depth of shine, gloss and clarity were obtained.

2007 – A new type of automotive surface protection system was introduced to the market in the form of wipe-on, walk-away clear sealants. The clear paint sealants are nanotechnology polymer coatings that are highly resistant to acids, detergents, and hard minerals, like calcium.

Now in 2011, no matter what type of vehicle you own, and the type of modifications you do, the auto detailing specialists can car wash, car detail, buff, car wax, and shine anything you own. Call and make a reservation with the Extreme Car Detailing Specialists located in Nashville, Tennessee. Please read the testimonials that our customers have written.

Which Car Alarm is Right for Me?

Which car alarm is right for me?
Car alarms become more and more sophisticated with each passing year. As career thieves grow more accustomed to new car alarm designs and learn to successfully overcome them, then more innovative designs are needed to help maintain a high standard of vehicle security.

Here we take a look at the various alarm types on offer, and help you to decide which type is right for your vehicle.

Door Alarms

These are the oldest, most basic, and cheapest form of car alarm on the market. With door alarms, an array of sensors and switches cause an alert signal to sound whenever one of your car doors opens. With devices as simple and as long-standing as this, you should note that career thieves now have a lot of experience when it comes to dealing with this alarm type. However, given the choice between an un-alarmed car and a vehicle fitted with door alarms, you know which vehicle the thief is likely to target!

Shock Sensor Alarms

A more sophisticated alarm type will rely not just on door alarms, but shock sensors too. These are fitted to your vehicle to pick up on any knocks or movement caused to your car. A different alarm is usually emitted depending on the severity of the shock received.

Shock sensors now form the basic hub of most car alarm designs. A higher level of security is achieved here because, rather than only alerting you to an intruder successfully gaining access to your vehicle, you are alerted when someone tries to attempt to access your vehicle, as well as when they try to steal parts from your vehicle, or tries to damage your vehicle in any way.

The only trouble with some of these shock sensor alarms is that they can have trouble differentiating between a genuine threat to your vehicle and a harmless occurrence – a cat jumping up onto your car bonnet for example!

Pressure and Window Sensors

A good car alarm system will also feature pressure and window sensors. Most car thieves want to access your vehicle in the quickest time possible. This means simply smashing one of your windows to gain entry. Window sensor alarms use microphones to detect the sound of breaking glass, alerting you as soon as one of your windows becomes damaged.

Pressure sensors are another method of measuring breaking glass, or a door being opened. A break to a window or the opening of a car door cause the air pressure inside your vehicle to change, and these sensors detect these changes, raising the alarm when changes occur.

No matter what type of car alarm you choose, you will be helping to deter thieves and increase your car’s security. And car alarms can help to bring your insurance costs down too.

Many insurers, from mainstream insurers like Kwik Fit Insurance to smaller specialist car insurance brokers, now offer reduced rates and discounts to car owners who have car alarms and security devices fitted to their vehicles. These alarms usually need to be Thatcham-rated and installed by a certified installer before they will be recognised by an insurer. Do check around the websites first though for helpful information; they allow you to browse a range of car insurance quotes to engage with.

Before you make any expensive alarm purchases, you should first check your existing insurer’s requirements and the availability of reduced rates and discounts, to make sure that you will benefit from reduced insurance costs as a result.